Friday, April 17, 2015

Europe Trip II: Amsterdam, Germany, Brussels and Prague

..See Places Till You Have No Liabilities...And You Are Young..And Can Walk Miles in Your Own Shoes...

We decided to do central/eastern Europe as we had already covered some western ground. We decided to have a combination of villages, cities, medieval castles, local food...so Netherlands, Belgium, Czech Republic and Deutschland.



Trip Map

We traveled in Trains, taxi, bus, subways, trams and most importantly.....walked carrying heavy bagpacks!

Debut: After a long overnight flight from sweltering heat of Delhi to Amsterdam we were ready to start our trip. We checked our heavy luggage in Schiphol Airport left-luggage for our 9-day journey. We tried to keep bag-packs as light possible because miles of walking lay ahead!

Amsterdam - Centraal, Nl
Keukenhof - Tulips















A. Amsterdam, Netherlands - day 1 and day 2 - Culture, freedom, bikes, canals, weed, De Wallen

We took a bus to Keukenhof for Tulip Gardens (combi ticket comes with return travel from schiphol to keukenhof and back - 30). It is spring-time and this is the only time of the year you can see the Tulips blossomed to full extent. Tulip fields are a treat to your eyes. So try getting there in April-May. We tried the local delicacy and dutch snack - smoked raw herring.

Dutch Windmill, Keukenhof,Nl
Our stay in amsterdam was very close to Amsterdam-Centraal because we had to catch a train early morning. Everything is closeby - Dam Square, De Wallen. Every place here smells of weed (felt almost like home in LA). Amsterdam is a small city easily reachable by bike or by feet . Almost everybody speaks English because they teach English in schools. We decided to stay in Kuwadero-Bread and Breakfast (narrow stairs -typical of Amsterdam - 3 floors - carrying heavy baggage would have been impossible)


Dam Square- was just a block away! The square is filled with touristy stuff and a memorial to WWII victims. In the evening we went to De Wallen - the Red-light district, where prostitutes offer their services in glass displays - Amsterdam is really a free country. it does not feel awkward at all and the place is completely safe. Next day we did Rijk Museum (ideally full day needed also visit Van Gogh Museum). Saw the iconic Night Watch from Rembrandt and many other exhibits. After that Anne Frank museum, frankly I thought it is a tourist trap but there are folks waiting 2 hours in line.
Night life: streets are filled with restaurants, people and shops offering everything...... 


Next morning we took a train to Brussels-Midi Station (Not so good station  - put our baggage in lockers.) 

Deutsche Bahn- ICE,  fast and efficient
Bruxelle - Belgique

 














  B.Bruxelle, Belgium - day 3 - Chocolates, beer, fries




Chocolates at Les Galeries Saint Hubert

Then we took a tram to Grands-place (The big square). Then had our breakfast at birthplace of 'Le pain Quotidian' for a micro-breakfast on Aarthi's insistance. Grands-Place is a big square with
Hotel de Ville and many museums. It is a nice square to relax and have Belgian favorites chocolates, beer and fries. Mannekin Pis :The iconic pissing kid is just a little walk away. The Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula is definitely worth a visit.

Les Galeries Saint Hubert is a covered shopping plaza with hi-end shops- must buy chocolates everything is close by and walkable

Next morning, we took a train ICE (intercity express) from Bruxelle-midi to Frankfurt Hbf and rented a car. We booked car through gemut.com

(the website looks bad but service is recommended if you are renting. Beware of scams from thrifty and hertz,see in travel forums. We got a GM car (though of German origin - SUV -Opel Mokka). I wish I had my BMW there. Driving on German autobahns is pure joy! Contrary to the popular belief that there are no speed limits is not true. There are limits (80-120kmph) but in many stretches it is unlimited! I drove once at 210kmph (140mph) and BMWs overtook me at 240kmph+.  DE has the best Highway discipline in the world! Hands down.  Lack of Toyotas and Hondas amused me. All the Taxi's are Mercedes Benz E-class estate and all police cars are BMW 3-series estate. Europeans and their love for ugly estates is un-understandable)

Ratskeller - Wurzburg, De
Alte Mein Bruke - 
Wurzburg, De
















C.  Bayern - Deutschland country side  - Romantic road - day 4, day 5 - Castles, scenic routes, bratwurst
We drove from  Frankfurt Hbf to Würzburg. (Took 3 hours for us to reach there. This is the start of famous Romantische Strasse developed to increase tourists. The route is scenic lined up by medieval Castles, scenic roads and farms.)
  
In Würzburg, a city destroyed in WWII, Alte Main Bruke (old main bridge), Residenz and Marienburg Festung are must see. We ate in highly rated Ratskeller - Bratwurst ( Pork Sausage) is famous in all places in De.

Then we drove to  Rothenburg ob der Tauber: A very well beautiful maintained medieval town. The town is  surrounded by walls on which we can walk . There is old town square, Kirsche and places for nice pictures!

Evening we drove to  Schwangau ( Hotel Landgasthof Zur Post, best breakfast) as next day we had planned to go to Neuschwenstein Castle. It was very beautiful as it started snowing. Part of our journey was in Austria! The snow will make castle even more beautiful. No doubt the most beautiful castle in the world (imitated by Disney world in Orlando and Paris).





Wurzburg, De
Next morning we went to the Neuschwanstein ticket center. Everything was covered in white melting snow.  Better book ahead of time as there are long lines! There is about a mile long walk to the castle. You can also go in a horse drawn carriage for €6. The snow made the king Ludwig II's castle even more beautiful. The castle is not too old built only in 1800's. There is a guided tour . Do book ahead of time. Do go to the bridge closeby to see most breathtaking views of castle. There are other castles too around. If time permits visit!

Rothenburg an der Tauber - feet giving away
Neuschweinstein Castle - Schwangau,De















My knowledge of little German did help but just to understand signs but understanding menus is so difficult with long German names. Driving is similar to US (US freeways took inspiration from Hitler's autobahns)


Afternoon we drove to the southern city of Munich (the place where Nazi's started)  to see the BMW museum near Olympic city.



D. München - Deutschland - day 6 - KZ, Beer, architecture


Dachau -KZ, - Dachau,De

Asams  Kirsche - Munchen, De














Probably the most beautiful German city, filled with gothic churches, breweries , beer gardens and  bikes.

Hofbrauhaus - Munchen, De
Next day we went to Dachau KZ , 15 kms from Munich. It is well worth half a day. Get a guided tour in English. Dachau was the 'showpiece' concentration camp (surprisingly, there are no extermination camps there, extermination camps were set-up only outside Germany). It makes you reflect on human savagery.
We went back to Munchen and had lunch in Hofbrauhaus one of the oldest breweries and world's most famous beer hall. Then we went to Marienplatz - It is the most famous square here filled with office going people and open cafes and restaurants.  The glockenspiel tower is also in the same square. BMW Museum that was saw was also good but not worth it unless you are big BMW fan and have time to spare. One thing Chinese tourists rule the roost in Europe.

Biking in the city is a very good way to see everything as places are not very far. Subways also have a very good connectivity.
Then we finished our Munich tour with Asam's Kirsche , one of the most ornate compact church ever seen!




We drove from Munchen to Prague - in 4 hours. There is no border checks. Currency is Crowns! though euro is widely accepted. (Now 1 € = Kr 27. Do not make conversion at borders, rates are very low Kr.21-22. Watch out for cops and get Cz pass for 10 days )

E. Praha - Czech Republik - day 7 - Castles, food, cobbled streets

Prague Castle - Prague, Cz

Charles Bridge - Praha, Cz

From Charles Bridge - Praha, Cz
Memorial to John Lennon - Praha, Cz



























Prague is one of the oldest cities in Europe. Everything is intact as WWII battles did not reach its steps. We stayed in U Medvidku hotel: built in 15th century. (1466  A.D.- this is even before Mughal's entered India) It is highly recommended!
Prague old town is full of old builds and narrow cobble-stoned alleys! One can spend days in Prague just walking on the streets staring at different restaurants.

Prague castle - full day can be spent there easily! Do not miss golden alley, St Vitus church. It is a seat of Czech government.
Old town square and Charles Bridge are a must visit. We were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of Czech president!


Next day morning, we drove to Berlin from Prague in about 3-4 hours to drop off our rental car back to Avis. 

 
Brandenburger Tor - Berlin, De

Von Dem Deutsche Volke - Bundestag - Berlin, De
















F. Berlin, Deutschland - day 8 , day 9 - USSR, Parliament, Brandenburg gate
We made Berlin Hbf was our base. It has lockers, baths and lots of fast food options. It was amusing to see Indian PM Modi's campaign ads for 'Make-in-India' there. 

Berlin was cut in two parts before the fall of Berlin wall to West-Berlin and communist East-Berlin . You can still see remainants of wall near Berenden and 70's Soviet style buildings.

Afternoon, we took a sub-U55 to Brandenburg Tor.  Brandenburg gate is probably best known symbol of Germany ( just like Eiffel or Taj Mahal). It was built in 18th century as gate. It is must visit. the place is filled with tourists and is flanked by embassies everywhere.

Just walking distance is a museum to Murdered Jews. A concert monument of hundreds of blocks, visit it if possible
Just around the corner is Bundestag, the German parliament. You can visit it if you have advanced booking. There is also a guided tour which explains you how the German parliament works 

Checkpoint Charlie-Berlin, De



Pergamon Museum - Berlin, De













Last day in Europe: We went to  Checkpoint Charlie. It is the most famous border crossing between west Germany and former communist east Germany. ( Frankly I see this as a tourist trap..'solders' there charge 2/head). All tourists flock this place. After few minutes of clicks and small museum visit we headed for Pergamon Museum . This is one of the most underrated museums. Though it is not as good as Le Louvre it is definitely worth a visit atleast for the famous 'Ishtar gate'. It takes at-least a full day to see it fully.

We ended our trip with having a late lunch at the Sony Center at the Postdam Platz.
Next day we flew from Tegel airport to Amsterdam. We collected our left luggage and flew back to 'home' to Los Angeles.

Smart Tips:
  • Get a nice 'no-foreign-transaction-fee' credit card, possibly Visa/Mastercard ( Amex is frowened upon everywhere). Credit-cards are used but not as heavily as in US. Carrying Euros is important and this is the best time to buy ( $1.08 = €1).

  • It is also useful to have city maps   I had offline maps Ulmon Maps It was able to track me in airplane mode. Having data is also very useful in non-english speaking countries ( ove you Google maps -esp for EU transits!). I used roaming data from AT&T ($30 - 120Mb).  European power is mostly 240V-60Hz so converter is needed.

  • Keep coin change: Restrooms are clean but need payment of 1-0,50 almost everywhere. But people are same everywhere, I saw an old lady with Gucci bag go inside under the barricade without paying :D

  • In restaurants: Water is never free of charge esp in DE/BE/CZ. When you ask for water you will get a measly 250ml for 2.5! No need for tipping 18% in restaurants. Just keep the remaining change coins, that is the norm.

  • Trains are the best, cheapest and fastest method to travel. Pre-book train tickets and reserved seats online ahead of time. There is not even customs between Shengen countries. intra-city

  • Gas is called 'Benzin' and you need to fill it yourself and pay it inside. Get Day City bus/Train/tram/subway passes they are cheap and useful.

What you need is passport, some amount of money and strong legs! It cost us around $8000 including the flight tickets for two people